Women of Wine Series, Part 3: Judit Bodo of Hungary

Vineyards on the Tokaj Hill have varied soils from ancient volcanic eruptions.

After our visit with Heidi Schrock this summer in Rust, Austria, my husband and I made the five-hour drive to eastern Hungary to visit the town of Tokaj, home to the aptly named Tokaji sweet wine, which has been made for centuries in this quiet, unassuming corner of Eastern Europe. Schrock telephoned a winemaker friend in Tokaj before we left, resulting in a warm invitation to her winery, which we promptly accepted.

I was really excited about this part of the trip as I had read about the wines of Eastern Hungary for years, but rarely got a chance to taste them. Tokaji wines are legendary, dating from more than 400 years ago. For centuries, Hungary was renowned for its food and wine culture and also for having the most varied native grapes in any Eastern European country. They were also the first wine area to classify growths (yes, before they did it in Bordeaux!). But that all came crashing down under the weight of the communist regime, and for decades the ancient wine cellars and vineyards of Tokaj suffered with the indifference of the communists, and time-tested standards were all but abandoned. Grape vines were ripped out of prime hillside vineyards and replanted with money-making crops such as sunflowers and corn, and cellar practices slid to sub-par levels.

But since the late 1980s and the fall of communism, winemakers in Hungary have been rising up and reclaiming their legendary past. Prime vineyard locations are once again growing such grapes as Furmint, Harslevelu, and Sargamuskotaly -- the principal varieties that make up Tokaji wine. And viticulture and vinification practices are once again, in most cases, stellar. In recognition of its past and in order to protect its future, UNESCO declared Tokaj a World Heritage Site in 2001.

Judit Bodo and Bott Wines

The entrance to Bott's winery.

Using their wedding money, winemaker Judit Bodo and her husband Joseph rented their first Tokaj vineyard -- 1 hectare -- and a cellar and produced their first vintage in 2005. Called "Bott," which is Judit's maiden name, the wines are traditional Tokaji, from indigenous varieties, and range from bone dry Furmint to super sweet Harslevelu. As of summer 2015, the couple has 5 hectares of vines scattered throughout the region and a cellar in the Tokaj Hill, which they purchased recently from a retiring winemaker. This is where we met Bodo this past July.

Bott's cellars, built into the Tokaj Hill

On this hot and muggy summer day, our tour began with a drive up to Bott's vineyards on the Tokaj Hill, guided by the friendly Judit. She had just left her three young children at home with her husband, who oversees the vineyard side of their business. She proudly showed us her vines, but was lamenting the heat and lack of water this summer. She was envious when we told her about the sudden downpour in Rust, Austria, the day before. Bodo described the soils of  the Tokaj Hill, explaining that they are varied, created from the 400+ volcanoes in the area. This is prime vineyard land.

Our visit with Bodo continued with a tour of her cellar, which was fascinating. You enter the building from a quaint and unassuming building at the base of the hill (photo above), but the cellars themselves are built into the hill, creating a cave-like atmosphere, replete with cobwebs, fungus (see white stuff in picture to left), and lovely cool air suitable for aging wines.

Bodo says she and her husband "are two steps away from our dream" of having an official tasting room. But in the meantime, the upstairs room, which offers a pleasant view of the Tokaj train station across the street, was fine for us. While we sampled her lovely wines, Bodo proudly showed us a framed New York Times article, titled Hidden in Hungary, Treasures on the Vine (July 2010), in which she appears, and brought out geologic maps and soil and stone samples to give us a lesson on Tokaj, and why the wines are so special.

Bott's wines are artisanal, obviously made with attention to detail. The winery produces just about 1,000 bottles per vintage, sometimes less, sometimes none, depending on Mother Nature. No doubt about it, this is a small operation, but you get the impression that Bott, like other small wineries in Hungary, is striving for excellence.

Winemaker Judit Bodo 

"The communists damaged everything," said Bodo, referring to the state of the wine industry during their reign. While small wineries like Bott are working to bring back the glory of Tokaj wines, Bodo says the large companies, such as Disznoko (which we visited later the same day), owned by French insurance giant AXA Millesimes, are important too, as they too focus on quality but also bring in the tourists so badly needed in this corner of Hungary. This is not a "wine trail" type of area, with open tasting rooms everywhere. You have to know where you are going, make an appointment, and be prepared to have a private, intimate tasting. My husband and I were two of the few non-Hungarians in town, and felt a certain pride in knowing we had visited a place so few Americans even know about.

I do hope that Tokaj tourism picks up, and I highly recommend it as a stop on your Central European wine travels. In the meantime, if you haven't done so, try a Tokaji sweet wine at the end of a special meal. You will love it.

Until next time, Egeszsgedre!


Some of Bott's wines are available at The Wine House (www.winehouse.com) in West Los Angeles. You can also check www.wine-searcher.com for retail outlets near you.

Read Part 1 and Part 2 of my Women of Wine series.

Women of Wine Series, Part 2: Austria's Heidi Schrock

The affable Heidi Schrock in her tasting room.

When my husband and I arrived in the small town of Rust on the western shore of Lake Neusiedl in sunny southeastern Austria, we felt we were stepping into the past. With ancient-looking but well-maintained family homes with large wooden "garage" doors that were once used to allow animal-drawn carts into interior courtyards, and the large storks' nests atop most of the buildings, the town looks much like it must have looked 600 years ago, which is about how long winemaker Heidi Schrock's family has lived here.

Schrock, who resides in her pristine ancestral village home, has converted parts of it into a winery. The room that once housed cattle now holds wine fermenting in stainless steel tanks. Her tasting room was once a grain room. And her cellar, which once had a working well and provided safety during less stable times, is now a wine cellar holding large oak casks of the wine she lovingly makes. The place, like Shrock herself, is eclectic and inviting.

Schrock's vineyards are on the hill overlooking Rust.

Schrock welcomed us into her home/winery this past July and quickly whisked us off in her broken-in van to the plots of vines that have been in her family for generations. Just outside the downtown of Rust, the vines are meticulously kept, and in July -- even though there was a major heat wave in Europe -- looked healthy and robust. We found out later that day that Rust is susceptible -- in a good way -- to impromptu cloud bursts that provide adequate water to the vines.

Tanks now sit where cattle were once housed.

Schrock grows several varieties, many of which we don't see much of in the US or know by different names. Whites include Welschriesling (no relation to Riesling), Weissburgunder (known as Pinot Blanc), Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris), Furmint, and Gelber Muskateller (Muscat Blanc); and reds Blaufrankish (Lemberger), St. Laurent, and Zweigelt (a cross of Blaufrankisch and St. Laurent). In the mix are two more recognizable international varieties, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. She makes wines ranging from bone dry to the sweetest possible (known as Ruster Ausbruch, more on this below).

600-year-old barrel room

Shrock makes more Pinot Blanc, or Weissburgunder, than any other varietal, but refers to Welschriesling as "my dear friend," as it has never disappointed her, even if the vintage is not great. She feels her Pinot Gris, or Grauburgunder, vintage 2009, was her most beautiful ever made, reminding her of Burgundy whites. Her "Biscaya" rose is made of eight different varieties, and was created by her Texas-born assistant and named for its lobster bisque-like color.

As of the end of 2014, Shrock has a new project, where she has special labels on her sweet wines indicating what they can be paired with. In the photo below, the "Beerenauslese" on the left is a pairing for fish, ham, and cheese, and the "Ruster Ausbruch" on the right (vintage 2002) pairs well with fruits such as bananas, as well as nuts and blue-veined cheeses. I brought these two gems home with me.

A bit about Ruster Ausbruch. Ausbruch is a sweet wine of Rust that is similar in style to the sweet wines of Hungary, known as Tokaji (more on them in my next post). Both areas use the Furmint grape, and to some degree "botrytized," or noble-rotted, grapes that concentrate the sugars in a manner that is deliciously sweet but with enough acid to be refreshing. Schrock and many other winemakers in Rust formed the Ruster Ausbruch group in lieu of joining the DAC, or Districtus Austriae Controllatus, system, which determines the quality level of wines throughout the country (in Rust's case, the Burgunland DAC). They believed, and rightly so, that their wines were distinct and reflective of the area of Rust where they were grown and produced and should therefore have their own quality system.

The kinship with Tokaj, Hungary, became apparent to us when Shrock asked us which vineyards we were planning to visit there, which was our next stop on the summer tour. When I mentioned one of the larger producers, she immediately called her friend Judit Bodo in Tokaj and arranged to have us meet with her the very next day. And we were so glad she did, as that turned out to be a memorable visit with another fabulous woman winemaker. And displaying the camaraderie that seems to exist in just about any winemaking community, Shrock had us deliver a bottle of her lovely sweet wine to Bodo. More on our visit to Hungary in my next post.

Until next time, Prost!

For more on Heidi Shrock visit www.heidi-schroeck.com/en_index.php. Some of Shrock's wines are also available at The Wine House (www.winehouse.com) in West Los Angeles. You can also check www.wine-searcher.com for retail outlets near you.

Read Part 1 of my Women of Wine series.

Women of Wine Series, Part 1: Kitá Honors Chumash Legacy

I was lucky enough to vacation this summer in Central Europe, visiting four countries, two of which are well known for their wines, Austria and Hungary. And living in California, there are of course hundreds if not thousands of wine makers within driving distance of my house that I can visit on a whim. Less common are wineries owned or run by women, and over the last few weeks I had the pleasure of meeting four exceptional women of wine: Heidi Schrock, in Rust, Austria; Judit Boda, in Tokaj, Hungary; and Tara Gomez and Tymari LoRe of Kitá in Santa Barbara, California.

Over my next few posts, I will profile each of these wine women, beginning with California's Kitá.

Kitá: Purity and Balance

Samala is the native language of Central California's Chumash Indian tribe, and their word Kitá means "our valley oak." Oak trees dot the 1,400 acres of vineyard property, known as Camp 4, that the tribe purchased from Fess Parker's estate in 2010, which is when Tara Gomez, a member of the tribe, was brought on as chief winemaker. 

Tymari LoRe and Tara Gomez

Gomez is a 17-years veteran of the wine industry who has worked various jobs around the world since graduating from Fresno State's oenology program. The Chumash tribe helped her with her education, and Gomez is a believer is paying it forward, and is hoping to teach the art of sustainable grape growing and winemaking to younger members of the tribe. "I see excitement about wine in the younger generation," she says.

Gomez brought on a female assistant winemaker, Tymari LoRe, five years ago. LoRe graduated from Cal Poly's viticulture and vinification program. Both winemaker and assistant believe that working with another woman has a certain "elegance" -- basically they taste things the same way and have a common, female, language for describing what they smell and taste. Together these two women are producing truly artisanal, award-winning wines, which they recently brought to an LA Wine Writer's luncheon at the West Restaurant of the Hotel Angeleno.

"Camp 4 is a special, spiritual place," says Gomez, who clearly loves what she does. She and LoRe, whom she has mentored like a daughter, are true believers in the philosophy that wine is not made in the winery, but out in the vineyard, and that there needs to be an "earth-to-man" balance. As winemakers, they feel they are the shepherds that guide the grapes through from vineyard to bottle. Both women love spending time in the vineyard, which features a mesa where the best soils are located and from where the vineyard can be viewed. They practice sustainability in the vineyard, although the winery is not currently SIP-certified.

Balance is important to both Gomez and LoRe. Both have traveled extensively, studying the grape and the purity of each variety. "We have experienced the true history of each grape," says Gomez, who spent time in Burgundy and the Pyrenees mountains of Spain, where she says she learned much from some of the oldest winemaking families in the world. She returned to California's Central Coast, spending 9 years with J. Lohr in Paso Robles, before reaching her true home in Santa Barbara, where she loves the wines being produced. LoRe spent a long harvest in Burgundy.

Grenache Rose paired with seared scallop

The Camp 4 vineyard was first planted by Fess Parker in 1999, and now boasts 19 different varieties of grapes. Gomez and LoRe are mainly focused on 100% pure variety wines, but recently created a few blends. Following are some of their wines:

Kitá's lovely Grenache Rose, a pretty salmon pink in color, is 100% Grenache, and paired beautifully with Chef Laura Scollan's seared scallop dish. This is a pre-release, but will be available soon at $18.

The 2013 T'aya -- which means "abalone shell" in Samala -- is a Southern Rhone style blend of Marsanne, Roussanne, and Grenache Blanc, and is so named because of the lingering saline finish.The area of the Camp 4 vineyard has sandy loam soils, which impart the briney quality to the grapes. The wine sits on the yeast as it ages, giving it a creaminess, but it also has a refreshing, crisp acidity, as well as vibrant tropical fruit. This is a good summer wine, and is priced at $22.

Gomez and Lore also presented two Pinot Noir wines at the luncheon, which are made from grapes purchased at the outstanding Hilliard Bruce property in the Sta. Rita Hills. Gomez says the 2013 is "something special, one of the best. It has less in color [than the 2012], but great complexity, reminding me of a Burgundy." And I agree. Paired with pan-roasted quail, it is a voluptuous, silky wine, which was just bottled in May. This wine is currently pre-release, but will be priced at $60.

The 2012 Pinot, from a vintage with higher yields, and lots of fruitiness, has a darker garnet color. It has classical California Pinot aromas of cherry cola, rose petals, deep, rich earthiness, and is a more powerful wine than the 2013. It's also $60, and currently available.

Gold-medal winning 100% Cabernet Sauvignon 

For blended wine, the usual Rhone blend is GSM, or Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre. "Mourvedre can be overpowering," says Gomez, so  Kitá does it differently, blending Grenache, Syrah, and Carignane in a wine called Spe'y, or "flower" in Samala. "On its own, Carignane does not have a good backbone," Gomez adds. But with 20% Carignane paired with 53% Grenache and 27% Syrah she achieves a "harmonious companionship" that paired with moroccan spiced duck. This floral-scented wine with blueberry, black pepper and candied fruit is lovely and well priced at $30.

Camp 4 is located in the eastern end the Sta. Ynez Valley, next to the eastern-most Happy Canyon, The weather tends to be hotter than the rest of the valley, therefore good for Bordeaux varietals.The classic Bordeaux grape is Cabernet Sauvignon, and Kitá has a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from 2012 that is outstanding. "Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the few varieties where the growing season has to be correct," says Gomez, or things like "shatter" can occur, whereby blossoms are knocked off the vines before they can set, as they did for the 2015 vintage. The 2012 is a beautiful cab with deep color, and classic aromas of fresh blackberries, black currant, cedar, sweet tobacco and vanilla, with a rich texture and dusty tannins. At $40, this is a great value.

Kitá wines have won accolades, among them:

• Gold Medal and 93 Points, Los Angeles International Wine Competition, for 2013 T'aya
• Double Gold, San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition and Finger Lakes International Wine Competition, for 2012 Pinot Noir, Hilliard Bruce Vineyard
• Gold Medal, International Women's Wine Competition, 2012 Pinot Noir, Hilliard Bruce Vineyard
• Gold Medal, Central Coast Wine Competition and International Women's Wine Competition, for 2012 Spe'y
• Double Gold, San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon
• Gold Medal and 94 points, Los Angeles International Wine Competition, 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon

Kitá wines can be purchased directly from their Web site, www.kitawines.com. Some of their wines are also available at The Wine House (www.winehouse.com) in West Los Angeles. You can also check www.wine-searcher.com for retail outlets near you.

Until next time, Cheers!

Greece's "X" Factor Wine

A hard-to-pronounce grape from Northern Greece is my latest wine discovery, thanks to a recent LA Wine Writer's luncheon at Hotel Angeleno in Los Angeles. Hosted by the the XinomavroNaoussa trade organization, the luncheon featured three Greek winemakers, a slew of wines, and some Greek food.

Xinomavro (pronounced "Tsee-nó-ma-vro" I am told, with emphasis on the first "o" just as in the word "Sonoma") is what I am calling the X Factor in the wines of Greece. It took me several tries to get the name right, but it was worth the pronunciation lesson. The "X" grape is similar in style, body and flavor to the Barolas of Italy, but the price tag is much lower.

Grown in the part of northern Greece called Macedonia, it is just one of the more than 330 grape varieties indigenous to Greece, of which only about 40 are exported to the US market. However, things are improving as we in America expand our wine palates and explore more interesting wines from around the world, and Greek wines in particular. Xinomavro, a hearty red, and Assyrtico, an acidic and minerally white, are now becoming more common on wine store shelves nationally.

Xinomavro is most at home in Greece's Naoussa region, a PDO, or special designated wine area, the first such area designated in the country. Running approximately 15 miles long, the area is reminiscent of Napa Valley in that there are low-lying vineyards, high vineyards on terraced hillsides, and some coastal vineyards, which provide a variety of ecosystems that give different nuances to the wines. But unlike Napa, this area can see snow in the winter.

An acidic and tannic wine, Xinomavro translates from Greek to "black with high acid." Fickle, and difficult to grow, the grape is sensitive to warmth, drought, and rot, but when successfully harvested and vinified it offers wines with aromas and flavors of strawberry and sour cherry, as well as vegetal characteristics, such as tomato, olives, mushrooms, and tertiary aromas (from oak barrel aging) of tobacco and tar. The more aged versions -- and some can age a very long time -- give off more dried fruit, such as plum and figs. Comparisons can be made not only to the Nebbiolo grape, which is the foundation of Barolas from Italy, but also to Pinot Noir.

We were treated to 13 wines at our luncheon, along with a lamb-and-eggplant-based Greek version of a shepherd's pie, which was a good match for the wines' tannin and acid.

Some of the wines are available in the US, some are not. Some producers make only a few hundred cases, so they stay in Greece. For example, Kelesidis Estate Merchali, 2006, has a production of only 500 cases. It is aged a year in oak (common to these wines), and offered nice fruit after 9 years aging, with a balance and structure that supported it. It was a nice treat, only available at our luncheon.

One of my favorites was the Elinos Naoussa 2007, again an aged wine, which is holding up very well due to its firm tannins and acidity. Thirty-five-old vines provided the grapes. The winemaker is 31-year-old fourth-generation winemaker Christos Taralas (for more on the winery visit their Web site.).

Many of the 13 wines tasted at the luncheon carried price tags under $20. I've listed the producers below, so it's worth checking out the Greek wine section of your local retail shop for them.

For more on the wines of Naoussa visit www.xinomavronaoussa.com/.

Until next time, Yamas!

List of Greek Wineries;
Vaeni Naoussa
Estate Chrisohoou
Dalmara
Ktima Diamantakos
Elinos
Estate Foundi
Estate Karyda
Estate Kelesidis
Kir Yianni
Kokkinos
Ktima Melitzani
Thymiopoulis

High-Alcohol Wines Can Be Balanced

Tuxedo Syrah has 16.5% alcohol, and is well balanced

Have you ever not purchased a bottle of wine based solely on its alcohol content?

I did that for the first time recently, as I was looking for a wine to pair with a duck breast with lingonberry sauce being served at a dinner party I was attending. After consulting What to Drink With What You Eat,* which is my trusted source in culinary matters, I began my search for a fruit-forward Zinfandel, which I was told would pair well with the fruit of the sauce. I liked the pairing, so I searched the stock at The Wine House (where I work) and found three staff favorites to choose among, none of which I had tasted before. I outright rejected one for its 17%+ alcohol. The mere thought of that much alcohol gave me a hangover headache.

Was I wrong for pooh-poohing this wine merely because of its high alcohol?

I'm beginning to rethink the matter since attending a panel discussion on the topic of high-alcohol wine at the Garagiste Festival Southern Exposure in Solvang last weekend. "The Elephant in the Bottle: The Great California Alcohol Debate" featured Norm Yost of Flying Goat Cellars, Keith Saarloos from Saarloos & Sons, and Stillman Brown from Zeppelin Winery, all of whom produce what would be considered "high-alcohol" wines. Attendees tasted each of the panelist's wines and voted on what they thought the alcohol level was.

For the purposes of this discussion, and according to the Wine & Spirit Education Trust guidelines, wines with 14% and above abv (alcohol by volume) are considered high-alcohol wines. They also note that alcohol in wines are generally rising worldwide. Whether or not this is due to rising global temperatures, the influence of critic Robert Parker, or just winemakers' choices is debatable and beyond the scope of this post.

But, it is a fact, and has been a fact forever that California is a warm, sunny environment for growing grapes, which produces more sugar, which results in higher alcohol. Plus, California weather has been fairly consistent year to year. The same cannot be said for "old world" growing environments, such as Bordeaux and Burgundy, where often there are far fewer sunny days and greater variation in weather conditions year to year. And lower-alcohol wines. "It's a cloudy world versus a sunny world" debate, quipped Doug Minnick, co-founder (with Stewart McLennan) of the Garagiste Festival.

Higher alcohol comes with the territory in California, and it's created what many call the "California palate," which I own to some extent. But there have been many disparaging comments about "fruit bombs" and "hot" wines, some of which are deserved, but many of which are exaggerated. Some California winemakers have been pursuing lower-alcohol wines lately, returning to old world practices. I've tasted many of these wines and I get what they are doing, and some of them are splendid and, yes, well balanced.

As the Garagiste Festival event showed, the alcohol content of a well-balanced wine -- one where acid, fruit, alcohol, and aroma/flavor characteristics are in harmony -- can become insignificant to many tasters, including me.

The six wines we tasted, including one from France, had the following abv percentages:

Zeppelin Winery 2013 Pinot Noir: 15.4%
Flying Goat 2010 Pinot Noir, Salisbury Vineyard, San Luis Obispo: 14.7%
Flying Goat 2011 Pinot Noir, Dierberg Vineyard, Santa Maria Valley: 13.2%
Cave Yves Cuilleron 2013 "Les Vignes d'a Cote" Syrah: 12%
Saarloos & Sons 2012 Family Tree GSM: 14.5%
Michael Gill Cellars 2011 Tuxedo Syrah (Stillman Brown is the winemaker): 16.5%

The correct-guess rate amongst the 35 or so attendees of the panel discussion was rather mixed -- as was my rate (I guessed correctly 3 out of 6 times). The Flying Goat 2011 Pinot was the only California wine not in the high-alcohol category, but many in the audience guessed it was. Conversely, several people thought the 16.5% Syrah was a low- or medium-alcohol wine. Hmm.

So what did this prove? Not much, as the panelists and attendees all seemed to be on the same page from the beginning. But it was great hearing three winemakers discuss their processes, show they believed in their wines, and snub their noses at the naysayers who disparage California wines. One thing was apparent to me: a wine that is balanced can have high alcohol, pair well with food, and be a pleasure to drink, just as an "old world" wine can be the same.

I must note that the wine I chose for the dinner party to pair with duck breast was a Ridge Geyserville Zinfandel 2012, and it has an abv of 14.4%, considered high alcohol. It was a perfect pairing. My next purchase will be the above-17% abv Zin that I rejected. It deserves a try.

Until next time, Cheers!


*What to Drink With What You Eat, by Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page, Bulfinch Press, 2006.

Skinner Vineyards Stays True to Gold Rush Heritage

Skinner vineyards in the Sierra Foothills grow both legacy and Rhone varieties

(Photo courtesy of Skinner Vineyards and Winery)

It was never Los Angeles real estate agent Carey Skinner's dream to open a winery, but circumstances, family, and "divine guidance" have made that happen. After discovering that the family was related to one James Skinner, a Scottish immigrant who landed in California during the Gold Rush and quickly established a ranch, mercantile store, and ... winery! ... things quickly fell into place for the Skinner family.

As she told those attending a recent LA Wine Writers luncheon at West Restaurant, Hotel Angeleno, Skinner's son and his wife were visiting Lake Tahoe back in 2006 and while perusing an old atlas noticed a dot marked "Skinners," so they turned off the freeway to investigate. Near Placerville, they found a plant nursery on the location, as well as an old wine cellar dated 1861. They also visited the pioneer gold rush cemetery and after talking with a docent discovered that James Skinner, the founder of Skinner Winery & Distillery in Green Valley, El Dorado County (in today's Sierra Foothills AVA) was a distant great uncle. In the year 1861 the winery was producing 15,000 gallons of wine and brandy to serve the flocks of Italian, Scottish and other thirsty immigrants who came to make their fortunes in the area.

Lead by patriarch Mike (who is "osbsessed with family" says his wife), who felt compelled to reclaim this family legacy, the Pacific Palisades-based Skinners got on a plane north with the intention of purchasing a 5-acre plot, but when they saw it was sold they instead purchased a different piece of land -- 25 acres with a house -- just a mile and a half from the original Skinner wine cellar. There was a tremendous amount of fear involved in starting up the winery, says Carey, who only gave up her real estate career at the end of 2014 to focus on the now fully operational vineyard and winery.

One of the goals with the newer Skinner Vineyards is to be true to the ancestral one, and that includes planting legacy vines, such as the preeminent California grape Zinfandel as well as such lesser known vines as Trusseau, Angelica, and "whatever was on probate records," says Carey. Back in the Gold Rush days, in an effort to hedge their bets with each vintage, the practice was to plant vines of all varieties side by side and create what is called "field blends."

"1861" label is homage to original J. Skinner Winery

The Skinners planted their first vineyard in 2006 and also hired up-and-coming winemaker Chris
Pittinger, who had an exceptional pedigree, with stints at wineries in Sonoma and Australia. They also hired architects to design a state-of-the-art 12,000 square foot solar winery. "We hired people who knew what they were doing" says Carey, as the family's goal was to create "exceptional wine."

With soils close in composition to those in France's Rhone Valley, Skinner Winery chose to focus on Rhone varietals: Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvedre for reds, and Viognier, Rousanne, Grenache Blanc, and Picpoul for whites. From their vineyards in the Sierra Foothills, Skinner Vineyards faces challenges, being that they have 51 different microclimates in an area that can rise to a scorching 98 degrees on summer days and dip to 58 degrees at night. Skinner's first harvest was in 2010 (before that they used a custom-crush facility). Some years have been tough, for instance the cool 2011, when they lost their entire Viognier crop, but others have been spectacular, such as 2012 and 2014.

Sierra Foothills Rhone varietals have been receiving some good press and Skinner, along with other family-owned wineries there, may soon open a local chapter of the Rhone Rangers. This organization, which has no lack of absolute "wine geeks," has done a great job spreading the word about French varietals that do well in sunny California.

While I have yet to visit the Sierra Foothills AVA, it's on my list of must-see areas over the next year. Fortunately, Carey Skinner brought her fine wines to Los Angeles for our luncheon. Skinner wines can be purchased directly at www.skinnervineyards.com, and are to be found in some fine restaurants in San Francisco and New York.

Skinner wines are a true find!

2011 and 2012 "Seven Generations" white Rhone blend, with Rousanne, Marsanne, Viognier, Grenache Blanc, and Picpoul ("lip stinger" in French). The 2013 had more Grenache Blanc, and therefore more acid, which sommeliers like for pairing with food, Carey told us.

2012 Grenache: This is elegant, light, with big cherry and raspberry flavors, and a touch of underbrush and dry herbs.

2010 and 2012 "1861," a blend of several different grapes, predominantly Grenache, with Mourvedre, Syrah, Counoise, and, in the case of the latter, a touch of Viognier to give it a more voluptuous mouth feel.

2012 Mourvedre. Much of this small-production variety is committed to Girl and the Fig restaurant in Sonoma, Calif., so it's otherwise hard to find. But if you can, it's a lovely wine, unfined and unfiltered, aged in neutral French oak for 11 months.

2010 Syrah is a tannic but well-structured red, that should be laid down for a while, with a touch (8%) of Viognier, and a hefty 15.1% alcohol level.

Skinner's whites are generally around $26 while the reds are about $30. They also have a rose for about $18.

While Carey Skinner told us that the gold in the soil of the Sierra Foothills does not in any way affect the flavors in her wines, I can say that the wines themselves are a true find.

Until next time, Cheers!

Provence Wines Are "In the Pink"

For me, nothing says "Spring" quite like rosé wine. It's light, refreshing, youthful, and full of fresh fruit flavors. Last week, when I walked into the rooftop terrace of L'Hermitage Hotel in Los Angeles and saw table after table of pink bottles in all shades, shapes and sizes, I just felt like Spring had truly sprung. (Truth be told, Spring never really goes away in LA, nor does my hankering for rosé!)

Part of the national "Provence in the City" tour of the Conseil Interprofessional Des Vins de Province (www.vindsdeprovence.com), the event highlighted 60 plus wines and about 25 winemakers from this sun-bathed region in the South of France.

One of the most interesting things about Province rosés is that they come in many shades of pink, from light, almost onion-skin, to rose petal to coral to cotton candy, cherry, ruby and raspberry (per the 'Rosé  Barometer' supplied by Chateau D'Esclans, see below). They are beautiful to look at.

Courtesy of Chateau D'Esclans

The color of the rosé depends on the grape or the grape blend used as well as the period of skin contact, which is a wine maker's choice. For instance, Whispering Angel from Chateau D'Esclans is made from a blend of Grenache (red), Rolle (white) and Tibouren (red) grapes and is quite pale, maybe a "light pink." The white Rolle, known as Vermentino in Italy, lightens up the wine. L'Esprit de Provence from Domaine du Grand Cros, made of Grenache and Syrah, both red grape varieties, is a much deeper pink, closer to cherry red.

Province is thought to be the oldest wine-growing area in France and is the world's largest rosé specialty region. In the last century, the area fell into over-production and developed a reputation for cheap table wines, but over the last 20 years or so, many of these poor-quality vines were pulled and a renewed effort to produce higher-quality, terroir-driven wines has taken place, with an emphasis on rosé. There is some some white wine production, with Rolle/Vermentino being a popular variety, as well as some earthy, or rustic, reds made from Carignan, Mourvedre, and other varieties.

Through my own observations selling wine at The Wine House (www.winehouse.com) rosé is gaining in popularity with consumers. And per a press release issued by Vins de Provence, exports of their rosés to the US have grown at double digit rates for 11 consecutive years. Citing statistics from French customs and CIVP, exports climbed 29% by volume from October 2013 to October 2014.This number is backed up by a Nielsen survey showing that rosé sales have experienced 10 straight years of double-digit growth, at 41% by volume in the same time period, compared with just 1.0% growth in the total table wine market.

I am heartened that more consumers are coming to the realization that rosé is often a great choice as both an aperitif and food pairing wine, and conversely, that winemakers are taking this once-denigrated style of wine more seriously and offering formidable choices.

Following are some of the wines I tasted and liked at the Wines of Provence event. Note that not all of these wines are currently distributed in all US markets. Either consult your local retailer or search www.wine-searcher.com.

Chateau de Brigue "Signature," 2014 vintage, is a blend of Grenache, Syrah and Tibouren, and smelled and tasted of citrus fruit, pear and minerals, typical Provence rosé (retail around $17.00). The reason I loved it so much was its beautiful mouth feel, which the winemaker described as "voluminous," and he was right. Note that this winemaker said he will soon produce a Provence sparkling rosé. I am looking forward to that! (www.chateaudebrigue.com)

Chateau Roubine made three different rosé wines, but the Tete de Cuvee Inspire-Crus Classe made me say "I'd have this for breakfast" because of its aromatic pink grapefruit flavors. Made of Tibouren and Syrah, this wine retails for around $40.(www.chateaurobine.com)

Domaine du Clos D'Alari is a family owned vineyard/truffle farm/olive grove/B&B that captured my attention. In the Province hills northeast of the coastal St. Tropez, owner Natalie Vancoillie makes lovely wines, either first press (green label) or second press (pink label), priced at around $10. You can check out this property at www.leclosdalari.com.

Hecht & Bannier caught my eye first because of their beautiful packaging. Yes, their Cote de Provence Rose is delightfully expressive of Provence with its floral notes and minerality. But the thoroughly modern approach to presentations was as refreshing as were the wines. The labels are of a plastic material that can be peeled off easily, and does not bubble up when wet (good, since rosé should be chilled in ice water), and the stoppers are of clear plastic material that is reusable. Hecht & Bannier are "negociant" wine makers, meaning they buy grapes from multiple vineyards, blending them to bring out the best possible characteristics. They don't own the vineyards. This is a practice more often associated with Burgundy and Bordeaux than with Provence. Read more about them at www.hechtbannier.com.

This is just a small sampling of the wines from Provence, but as rosé season approaches, I am excited about the restocking that's happening at The Wine House and other retailers. Pink just seems to brighten everything up.

Until next time, drink the pink! 

Shining a Spotlight on Santa Barbara Wines

Morgen McLaughlin, Executive Director of the Santa Barbara Vintner's Association, has what I consider to be one of the best jobs in the world, as well as one of the hardest. She is essentially an ambassador for the county's five AVAs and the numerous, mostly small-production, family-owned wineries that strive for state, national, and international recognition in a highly competitive and sensitive market.

Chardonnay is the most widely planted variety in Santa Barbara

Santa Barbara ranks fourth in the state, behind Napa, Sonoma, and Paso Robles, in terms of recognition as a viticulture area, says McLaughlin, and her goal is to move it up to No. 1. To that end she travels a great deal, both nationally and internationally, to get the word out. Of course it doesn't hurt that Santa Barbara is highly attractive as a destination even beyond its vineyards and wineries, and is just two hours outside of the metropolis of Los Angeles. Nor do the celebrities who ventured into wine making in the area hurt its attractiveness, starting with pioneer (in more ways than one) Fess Parker back in the 1980s to the likes of Kurt Russell and Emilio Estavez today.

Santa Barbara's five AVAs (a sixth, Los Alamos, is coming soon) grow many varieties of wine, not just Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, as many consumers think. The county's east-west running mountain range brings ocean breezes far inland, creating many different micro-climates that allow varieties as disparate as Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, and Syrah, among others. Some do well in the cooler Santa Rita Hills, while others thrive in the warmer Ballard and Happy Canyon regions.

Morgen McLaughlin pours Santa Barbara wines

A recent luncheon of the newly formed Los Angeles Wine Writers group  (of which I'm a proud member) hosted McLaughlan, who brought 10 Santa Barbara County wines to be served with a four-course meal at the WEST Restaurant and Lounge of the Hotel Angeleno in Los Angeles.

It all began with a surprising 2013 Sauvignon Blanc from Star Lane ($22) in the Happy Canyon district. This is the first vintage of Tyler Thomas, who comes from Northern California, and is a "methodical but artistic" winemaker. He ferments in stainless and ages in 1200-gallon oak vessels, creating a nuanced, balanced and refreshing wine, that paired beautifully with Chef Laura Scollan's Lobster Truffle Mac and Cheese. 

Subsequent courses included honey-glazed salmon paired with three different Chardonnays -- from Foxen, Melville, and Hilliard-Bruce. Chardonnay is the most widely planted vine in Santa Barbara (Sauvignon Blanc is the second), and can range in style based on where it's grown. Foxen's 2013 Chardonnay ($32) is from the famous Bien Nacido vineyard in Santa Maria Valley which lays claim to being "the most designated vineyard in the world." The Miller family, which owns Foxen, has been making wine for 30 years in the area and, says McLaughlin, is "staying relevant" by being at the forefront of modern viticulture practices.

Melville's 2013 Chardonnay ($36) sees no oak at all, and is allocated and hard to get, so we wine writers were happy to be treated to it. Hilliard-Bruce's 2011 Chardonnay ($45) is a lighter, cool-vintage style, and is made in the county's first LEED-certified winery, which I toured shortly before it was completed last summer. (It's a marvel to behold, but note that appointments are needed as they have no tasting room.)

Chef Laura Scollan's Maple Bourbon Pork Loin

Maple Bourbon Pork Loin was paired with three Pinots, from Longoria (2012, $55), Au Bon Climat (2012, $40), and Lafond (2010, $50). Again, different styles, colors, and flavor profiles, with the last being older by two years. All were delicious.

The final course of Ginger Snap Lamb Rack was served with three Syrahs, from Brander, Demetria ($34), and Margerum ($25), all vintage 2012. While all lovely, the Demetria, with its slight hint of mint, was the perfect pairing with the lamb.

McLauglin, who recently held the same post in New York's Finger Lakes District, says that while New York vintners (and beer and spirits makers) have major financial backing from their state, California's regulatory body is anti-wine. It can be extremely difficult, for instance, to set up a tasting room on vineyard property. To combat this, she sees a trend of winery collectives working with third-party management companies providing tasting rooms that combine wine, food, and art. Santa Barbara's Funk Zone and El Paseo districts are great examples. McLaughlin also envisions partnerships among wine regions in California, all of whom are fighting the same battles as Santa Barbara.

Syrah and Pinot Noir are among the many varieties grown in Santa Barbara

As for Santa Barbara County's future in the wide world of wine, McLaughlin is hopeful: "People are back to spending money on wine, and consumers want wine from all over the world, wine that is all good and all worth drinking."

Until next time, Cheers!