Book Review: Root Cause, a Wine Thriller

I love wine, and I love a good mystery novel. Put the two of these together and I'm ready to curl up with my cat and dog on my couch for a good long read.

I recently came upon a copy of Steven Laine's Root Cause, a "wine-soaked" mystery, according to Kirkus Reviews. This lengthy -- 359 pages -- mystery/thriller is suited to the wine geek as well as the average mystery lover, but it's the former who will get the most out of it.

Laine knows his wine, and tends to show it in his writing. I found myself nodding in agreement with him as he described the various wine regions, grapes, and vinification practices that supported his fun-packed and informative wine mystery. My years and years of wine studies came into play as I hungrily read page after page of this engrossing mystery.

The book's main protagonist is Corvina Guerra, an Italian "flying winemaker" who grew up in the vineyards of her parent's home in Italy. Of note, she's named after the core Italian grape variety used to produce Amarone, the full-bodied wines of the Valpolicella region of Italy. Like the grape, she is both down to earth and richly endowed with vitality along with keen street and book smarts. Her professional and personal lives, however, are at a crossroads, as her marriage is on the rocks and her job with Universal Wines is not on solid terroir. She begins to suspect that someone is intentionally infecting the world's top vineyards with the phylloxera (playfully called Philomena in the story) aphid, a treacherous louse that nearly destroyed the vineyards of Europe in the 1850s when it was imported on American rootstock. American vines were and are immune to the disease, but European vines were eaten alive by the pests, and it was only the grafting of European wines to American rootstock that saved the wine industry from near extinction in France and other regions. Corvina's boss at Universal Wines is not easily convinced that she should travel the world tracking the 'root cause' of this nemesis of the vineyard, but of course she does.

Corvina eventually teams up with the dashing, debonnaire Bryan Lawless, a flawed but lovable wine writer and "Master of wine, but not quite" (he was somehow kicked out of the program but we don't get full details on that), who immediately displays the sharp wit and skill that have served him in the sometimes cut-throat world of  luxury wine, as well as the shoot-from-the-hip impulsiveness that has led him to be blacklisted from it. It's the classic bad boy-good girl team-up that may or may not be romantic, but definitely makes for a crack detective duo.

The journey to find the culprit or culprits who are spreading the destructive pest in the world's vineyards is thrilling, with Interpol eventually getting involved as the protagonists make swings through Singapore and the vineyards and wineries of France, South America, South Africa, Napa, Italy, and Portugal. At times the book is written like a travelogue, and considering Laine's background as an International traveler working in the high-end hotel business, it works really well.  I was on the edge of my seat ... mostly because my wine geek side was fascinated with Laine's real-life experiences of these vineyards and wineries which shined through on the pages.

The final solution is satisfying, though a bit bizarre, and the chemistry, or should I say 'blend,' of Corvina and Bryan, left me thirsty for more wine capers featuring these two intrepid oenophiles.

Root Cause is available at Amazon.com.

Until next time,
Cheers!

Mudgee ... It's a Wine Region in Australia!

The beautiful skies of Mudgee

I post this in the midst of the horrible destruction of human and animal life as well as property caused by the catastrophic bush fires in Australia. In October 2019 when I visited, the drought concerns expressed by the vintners in the Hunter Valley and Mudgee wine regions caused me to worry about the future of this beautiful place, and my fears have now become real. I dedicate this post to the people and wildlife of Australia and hope that this terrible situation is resolved soon.

As my post-conference excursion for Wine Media Conference 2019 in Hunter Valley Australia, I jumped at the opportunity to go to the neighboring wine district called Mudgee. With a name like that, I couldn't resist!

The name Mudgee comes from the Wiradjuri term "Moothi, and translates to "nest in the hills." The Wiradjuri are a group of indigenous Australian Aboriginal people who thrived in Central New South Wales before the arrival of European settlers in the early 1800s.

Mudgee, a small-ish wine area about 3 hours northwest of Sydney, is touted in New South Wales Wine Country, published by Destination NSW in partnership with the NSW Wine Industry Association, as a culinary epicenter, brimming with top-rated restaurants and farmers markets providing a broad range of seasonal produce and local food products. Honey is another main attraction, with small family operations producing wild honey and honeycomb products with fragrance and flavors unique to the local terroir .... sounds a lot like wine, doesn't it?

And speaking of the wines, which is the point of my writing and the main reason for my trip to Mudgee, they were a surprisingly interesting and delicious revelation for me. After several days of focusing on the Semillon (see my previous post) and Shiraz of the Hunter Valley, it was nice to sample some of the other grape varieties that Mudgee offers, like Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Tempranillo, and Sangiovese. And like neighboring Hunter Valley, there are also excellent Semillon and Shiraz being produced in Mudgee.

Following are some hightlights of the Mudgee trip. More adventures will follow in my next post.

Hollydene Estate Wines

Hollydene Estate's tasting room and restaurant

Juul Blanc de Blanc

Our first stop on the drive from Hunter Valley to Mudgee was breakfast at Hollydene Estate Wines in the Upper Hunter Valley.

Being a weekend destination for Sydney and surrounding areas, many wineries in Upper Hunter and Mudgee offer food and lodging options. Hollydene has a stunning restaurant and grounds that are conducive to weddings and romantic dining experiences.

Their wines range from sparkling Blanc de Blanc called Juul (not the e-cigarette!), which was delicious with the beautiful breakfast buffet Hollydene served, to Semillon, Riesling, Sangiovese, Tempranillo, Shiraz, Verdelho and Muscat. Quite a lineup! This was a great stop on our way into the heart of the Mudgee valley.

Our intrepid driver Ben of Mudgee Tourist Bus took us up and over the Blue Mountains to the stunning Mudgee valley.

Robert Stein Winery

Our first stop in the "nest in the mountains" area of Mudgee was at Robert Stein Winery  (prounounced Steen) -- which is home to acres of vineyards, a winery, a motorcycle museum, and the exceptional Pipeclay Pumphouse restaurant.

We had a divine, languorous lunch made by Pumphouse Chef Andy Crestani, with each course paired with the gorgeous wines of winemaker Jacob Stein, grandson of the founder Robert Stein, the motorcycle enthusiast who established the winery in 1976. Stein's wines included Rieslings, both dry and half-dry, a saignee rose, cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, and my favorite, "The Kinnear," which is 100% hand-picked Shiraz, and named after the ship that brought the first Stein, Johann, to Australia in 1838. I'm saving my bottle of this for a very special occasion.

Since that first Stein arrived on Australian shores in the early 1800s, along with many other German immigrants, the family has been growing grape vines. There is a long and rich family history at Stein Family Winery.

Clockwise, starting top left: "The Kinnear" Shiraz; Pipeclay Pumphouse Chef Andy Crastani; the original pump outside the restaurant: Jacob Stein in the Motorcycle Museum (that's his grandfather pictured on the wall)

Kanga Madness

A surprise revelation on the Mudgee tour was about Kangaroos. Being from the US, I had never seen one before, and assumed that they were a sacred animal in Australia. Well, they are and they aren't. Kangaroos are a national symbol, adorable (from afar), and definitely a tourist attraction, but to Australians they can be a nuisance, the way that deer can be in the US, causing car accidents and property damage. In fact, my first Kanga sighting was of a "sleeping" one (our driver Ben's description) on the side of the road (ugh!).

Depending on who you speak with, the Kangaroo population is out of control. Vineyard managers do not love Kangas, as they eat grapes and they are dealt with as any pest in a vineyard. I saw Kanagroo pelts in the Queen Victoria Market in Melbourne, which was my first realization that they are hunted. And Kangaroo meat is consumed in Australia. Our lunch at Pipeclay Pumphouse included a course of  Kangaroo tar tar ... a dish I tasted, but chose to leave for others to consume.

The Cellar by Gilbert

This is another Australian wine family whose roots go back generations in the wine industry. Our host on this visit was Will Gilbert, the current wine-maker, along with his father, who represent the sixth and fifth generation of Gilberts in the wine business. Our delightful evening including samples from Gilbert's current and library selections, paired with  gorgeous platters of delectables from High Valley Cheese Co.

Will delighted us with his fresh, modern approach to wine making and his family history. The Cellar was founded in 2004 in Mudgee by Will's father Simon, however the wine-making Gilbert family got its start in the Eden Valley of South Australia. The family founded the iconic Riesling maker Pewsey Vale Vineyards.

Will epitomized the youthful, experimental new generation of wine makers that I'm seeing in just about every wine region I visit. He was enthusiastic about trying new grape varieties and clonal selections, as well as experimenting with various vinification methods -- orange wines, carbonic maceration, pet nats -- while at the same time respecting and preserving traditions handed down to him over the generations. I especially loved his 2018 Sauvignon Blanc Sur Lie. And not to be pigeon-holded, Will also produces ciders.

Downtown Mudgee and the Perry Street Hotel

Church spire in downtown Mudgee, Alby + Esther's Wine Bar and Coffee House, and the Perry Street Hotel

I'm a huge fan of Aussie and New Zealand TV, and have been known to binge watch my favorites for hours. In one of them, called The Heart Guy (called Doctor Doctor in Australia), I've always been captivated by the gorgeous landscapes and quaint downtown area. Well it turns out this show is filmed in Mudgee, and I was staying in the Perry Street Hotel, one of the best-appointed boutique hotels I've ever been in, which was in the opening shot of a recent episode of the show! 

Mudgee's town center looks like a cross between Mayberry RFD and a California Gold Country town. It's got charm, with cute little shops, church spires, and comfy hotels along with a more rugged, outdoorsy grit. It's a thoroughly pleasant place to spend a few days.

Alby +  Esther's is one of the charming, must-see spots in town, and we enjoyed a hosted breakfast on our first morning in town. The cafe is tucked into a cobblestoned alleyway in a building that dates back to the 1870s, and is full of charm and friendliness. The locals and visitors mingled while we enjoyed local (fantastic) fare in a private, art-filled dining room.

Mudgee Tourism 

Mudgee Region Tourism and Mudgee Wine Association are doing a terrific job attracting tourism to this lovely part of the world. Currently, however, only about 4% of tourists to Mudgee are international travelers, says Cara George CEO of Mudgee Region Tourism. One of the goals in hosting US and other international wine writers was to spread the word about Mudgee, its wines and its abundant attractions, and I happily do so.

Having been there, I can say it feels like an undiscovered gem. It's got everything going for it, except rain right now.

Here's hoping that the storm clouds roll in and preserve this beautiful part of the world.

More on Mudgee wineries in my next post!

Until next time,

Cheers

Hunter Valley's Simple Yet Complex Semillons

This year's Wine Media Conference took me to Australia's Hunter Valley, for the first-ever overseas version of this yearly event.

This gorgeous region, which is little known outside of Australia, produces some of the world's best Semillon wines. Both youthful versions and aged versions have been thrilling wine aficionados for decades, and I was thrilled to experience them in their natural habitat.

Semillon is the signature wine of the Hunter Valley -- a region that is little known outside of Australia. The region's dominant red grape is Shiraz -- Aussie for Syrah. The latter tend to be lighter, less opulent and more nuanced versions than those produced elsewhere in Australia.

I was aware of Hunter Valley Semillons because a few of them are sold at The Wine House where I work, from iconic producers like Tyrrell's, Brokenwood, and Silkman. Addionally, in my WSET Level 4 Diploma studies, I learned in-depth about Hunter Valley Semillons, including the effect the area's sub-tropical climate has on the grapes in the vineyard, the winemakers' minimal intervention approach (i.e., no oak), and the wines' ability to age for many years. In fact, my final exam for my Diploma included one essay question comparing two wine labels, one for an aged dry white Bordeaux blanc (a Sauvignon Blanc-Semillion blend) and an aged Hunter Valley Semillon. The Old World versus New World faceoff!

Pick, Crush, Ferment, Bottle

Semillon is a white grape variety, well known as a blending partner with Sauvignon Blanc in Bordeaux's dry whites from the Entre deux Mer and Graves appellations, and the succulently sweet wines of the Sauternes and Barsac appellations. Additionally, California Sauvignon Blancs often have Semillon blended in, and I prefer these versions as the grapes fill in the gaps for each other -- the Sauvignon Blanc providing aromatics and searing acidity, the Semillon providing more toned down fruit and aromas and a more rounded texture.

Semillon vines are productive, easy to grow, and well-suited to the climate of the Hunter Valley, a wine region a couple hours drive northwest of Sydney, in New South Wales. The sub-tropical weather in the valley provides afternoon cloud cover and humidity that keep the vines stress-free in this otherwise hot valley, and the light, sandy soils are ideal for Semillon.

Per Liz Silkman of Silkman wines, the typical Semillon from the valley evolves from a lean, tight, coiled citrus (lemons and limes) wine for the first five years, then it grows into toasty nuttiness. The reason? Per Silkman, they don't really know why, and it's possibly the chemistry of the wine itself. But the winemaking approach "could not get less interventionist," says Silkman.  The wine can sit in this evolutionary phase for five or 10 years, and then can evolve into a beautiful golden color, while retaining its acid and citrus notes. (See notes on the Tyrrell vertical tasting below.)

Rain and Lack Thereof

The Hunter's rainfall can be plentiful and often occurs during harvest. Unfortunately, the valley has had three consecutive drought years and its water supply is at a critical level, which means drinking water, much less water for vine irrigation, is in danger of drying up completely. While we visited the Hunter, every winemaker we met expressed the need for rainfall, and the tension surrounding this issue was palpable. I was heartened to see, however, that global climate change is an accepted scientific phenomenon in The Hunter Valley, which was stated emphatically by Julie McIntyre of the University of Newcastle, who did a presentation on the history of the vine in Australia, and is also the co-author of Hunter Wine. She will be spending time this year at UC Davis as a 2019 Fulbright Scholar.

A Sampling of Semillons

As part of WBC 2019, we were invited to taste some Semillons from the more well known producers as well as many from smaller boutique producers. Following are a few of the standouts for me:

Two Rivers Stone's Throw Semillion

I include the 2018 Two Rivers Stone's Throw Semillon here because it was what my husband and I drank while having a picnic lunch on a blanket at Manly Beach, to the north of downtown Sydney. This wine, while not complex or expensive, will always evoke memories of one of our favorite days in Australia. 

On that day, we boarded the ferry at Sydney's Darling Harbor, saw the Sydney Opera House and Sydney Bridge up close, and disembarked in Manly about 40 minutes later to discover this enchanting, relaxed seaside community that offers so much. It has beautiful beaches, bustling village streets, hiking trails, lots of wildlife (including the Eastern Water Dragon), and several "bottle shops," which we call wine stores in the US. I found the delicious bottle of Two Rivers Semillon at one of the shops for about $18 Australian, a real bargain!

It was a delightful wine, pairing well with our picnic lunch. This young Semillon is light, citrusy, and cheerful, and has been awarded many accolades, including a gold medal at the 2019 Sydney Royal Wine Show, produced by the Royal Agricultural Society of New South Wales. (Another fun fact about the Australian wine industry: they love and have many wine shows!) Unfortunately, I cannot find this wine for sale in the US.

Tyrrell's Vat 1 Semillon

When you drink Tyrrell's Semillon you are drinking Hunter Valley history. Since 1858, this family-owned winery has been growing vines and perfecting its wines, and now siblings Chris, Jane and John Tyrrell are the fifth generation to helm the business. Chris, 36, began his wine-making career in 2001 when his grandfather Murray Tyrrell passed away, and he was our excellent host for a tour of the original vineyard and winery, with its dirt floor and ancient wine vats, followed by dinner at the lauded Muse restaurant. 

Before dinner, in the barrel room of the original winery (the main operations have moved off the historic site to a modern facility), Chris Tyrrell set up a vertical tasting of Semillon and Shiraz. Of note, we tried 2019, 2009, and 1998 of Vat 1 Semillon -- Vat 1 is Tyrrell's top-line vineyard. The 2019 was light, bright and aromatic; the 2009 was lovely and rounded, and still evolving; and the 1998 was suprisingly bright and acidic, with lots of lemony citrus notes. This was the perfect example of how Semillons from the Hunter Valley can evolve and age, in this case for over 20 years, and still have some life in them. 

Tyrrell's 2019, 2009, and 1998 Vat 1 Semillon displayed how this wine can age beautifully.

Echoing Liz Silkman's words, Tyrrell says, "It's all quite simple; we crush, ferment, and bottle." That's the story of Hunter Valley Semillion ... minimal intervention, but beautiful, complex results.

Brokenwood ILR Reserve Semillon

Brokenwood senior winemaker Stuart Horndern

The Hunter Valley Wine Tourism Association hosted all attendees at Brokenwood Wines for an evening of wine tasting and mingling with about 20 of the "Legends of  Hunter Valley." The Legends are the men and women winemakers of the region who had the most impact on the valley's wine reputation. This beautiful winery was named 2019 Cellar Door of the Year by the Tourism Association and it is stunning (see picture below with my husband).

Brokenwood's senior winemaker Stuart Hordern, who introduced the Legends at the event, brought his 2013 ILR Reserve Semillon to the white wine "speed tasting," which has become a hallmark of the WMC. This classic Semillon was 100% stainless steel-aged, and had notes of brioche and bees wax, with zingy acid. It was bright and fresh and just beautiful.

Fortunately, both Tyrrell's and Brokenwood's wines are generally available in the US. It's the small, boutique wineries that you are less likely to find, but they are worth seeking out while in Australia.

My husband Bruce at the beautiful Brokenwood Winery cellar door.

It was great to have the opportunity to explore Hunter's Semillons, both the ones I was familiar with and new ones, while in Australia. The above is just a sample of the wines of Hunter. I hope to explore the Shiraz and other other grape varieties of Hunter in future posts, as well as the wines of the Mudgee region.

Until next time,
G'day Mate!

White Wines All the Time!

Almost every day at The Wine House I get a customer saying they want to stock up on white wines because they keep running out of them. Their daily choice when reaching into their wine refrigerator tends to be whites, not reds, leaving the reds for either cooler weather or a more "serious" occasion.

I can so relate to this!

I got it into my head that my collection -- modest as it is -- should be filled with age-able, complex reds from around the world ... Italian Barolos, Bordeaux blends, Napa cabs, and Spanish Riojas. All these wines sit there, waiting for some unknown special occasion in the distant future. But my white and rosé racks always seem to be bare.

Why is this?

Bottom line, I drink more whites and rosés than reds, and not just in the hot summer months. I live in Los Angeles, where cold weather is quite rare, but still, I tend to drink the paler wines even when the temperature dips below 60 degrees. They are what I crave at the end of a work or leisure day, and they tend to pair well with the food I like.

Some of the white wines on display at Great Whites Fest Part Deux. Il Lugana (far left) was the hit of the Fest!

With all this in mind, I hosted the first "Great Whites Fest" at the Wine House in August 2018, followed this past August by "Great Whites, Part Deux." My intent was to help people explore the plethora of white grape varieties grown around the world, and also to show the wide variety of styles of more common International varieties like Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Pinot Grigio.

Both festivals sold out and were a success based on the feedback I received and the after-event sales of the wines. There were crowd favorites, as well as "interesting" wines that people were willing to try, but not necessarily buy. Most wines were reasonable priced, that is, below $30, and often under $20.

Following are eight of the festival favorites:

2018 Pasini San Giovanni Il Lugana, Lugana, Italy, $21.99

By far the best seller of the day was this wine from the Lugana area of Lombardy, Italy. This particular bottle is short and squat, which is bad for storing in wine refrigerators but appealing for its uniqueness ... it just looks like fun wine to drink. And it is! This white wine is made from the little-known Turbiana grape, and has a roundness on the palate, offering a touch of honeysuckle, green apple, and white peach, but with bright acidity. This is a perfect summer sipper to drink on its own or with light summer fare.

2018 Domaine du Salvard "Unique" Sauvignon Blanc, Loire Valley, France, $12.99

This Sauvignon Blanc from the Touraine region of the Loire Valley is a thirst-quenching, food-pairing, fruit-forward wine with zingy acidity. It has a beautiful floral nose and citrus on the palate. This one should be bought by the case and is a perfect party wine.

2018 Hippolyte Reverdy Sancerre, Loire Valley, France, $28.99

Hippolyte Reverdy's family has been making wine in the Loire for generations. This Sauvignon Blanc from the Sancerre region is my go-to Sauvignon Blanc when I want to spend a tad more than usual -- and it's so worth it. This wine has a bit more heft to it than other Sancerres, with a lovely viscosity that coats the tongue but also a purity and freshness that makes it a perfect pairing with lighter foods such as grilled shellfish, salads, and light pasta dishes.

2017 Domaine Pinson Frères Chablis, France, $24.99

This well-priced AOC Chablis displays 'typicity' of Chablis, that is, a wine with oyster shell minerality due to the ancient seabed soils of this region, plus tropical and citrus fruit on the palate, with some grapefruit on the end. This lush yet linear wine pairs well with fish, of course, as well as lighter chicken and pork dishes. (Not pictured.)

2018 MAN Family Wines Free Run 'Steen' Chenin Blanc, South Africa, $8.99

This is not a complex wine, but it's pleasant, easy drinking, and great value as one of those rare wines we sell that are under $10. This South African Chenin Blanc, known as 'Steen' there, has tart fruit flavors -- apples, lime, plum -- with weight and acidity to round it out. It sure goes down easy, and with the price, it would also be a great choice for a large gathering.

2017 Sylvain Pataille Bourgogne "Les Méchelots" Blanc, Burgundy, France, $31.99

Sylvain Pataille is a certified organic and biodynamic winery in the Marsannay region of Burgundy. Sylvain's wines emphasize the soil in which they are grown, and show a great deal of minerality. The wines are aged in older oak barrels, so there's just a hint of oak on this Chardonnay. This is a beautiful white Burgundy made with exquisite care at a very good price.

2017 Dafnios, Vidiano Crete, Greece, $15.99

Vidiano was a near-extinct white grape that was revived by young winemakers in Greece, and this is a good example of the crisp, refreshing whites coming out of the Mediterranean islands. This wine has an elegance, offering citrus aromas and apricot and flowers on the palate, and a lingering finish. I'm really enthusiastic about the whites from Greece and encourage everyone to check them out. 

2018 JLH Roussanne, Santa Barbara, California, $29.99

This wine from actress Jennifer Love Hewitt and her husband Brian Hallisay is a fine example of the Rhone white variety Roussanne from Santa Barbara County. On the nose it has honey, Asian pear, and citrus blossoms, and the palate offers subtle citrus and warm apple, with a butterscotch finish. Yum.



There are so many Great Whites from around the world, and my goal is to explore as many of them as I can. Most of the wines mentioned in this post are currently available at www.winehouse.com.


Until next time,
Cheers!

Exploring Oregon at 'Wine Camp'

Oregon Pinot at Sokol Blosser Vineyards

Being invited to the Oregon Pinot Camp is like being handed a golden ticket. Just imagine, a camp for adults in the wine country of Oregon, dedicated to the wines, wineries, and wine makers of this beautiful state. What could be more fun?

When I got the good news that I got into camp this year, I was thrilled, as colleagues who have attended this camp in previous years have regaled me with stories from this four-day deep dive into Willamette Valley and its wines, including the festive last-day salmon bake, myriad winery and vineyard tours and, of course, wine sampling.

Oregon Pinot Camp, or OPC, occurred in mid-June this year, and hosted 270+ wine industry retailers, distributors, sommeliers, and wine/beverage directors from the around the world. OPC lived up to my expectations and surpassed it in many ways. I want to thank The Wine House (my employer) co-owner and domestic wine buyer Glen Knight for aggressively pushing for my acceptance to camp, and also Elk Cove Vineyards for sponsoring me. I'll be forever grateful, and better informed about Oregon wines.

Riesling Rising

Alexana, Raptor Ridge, and Brooks Rieslings

Oregon Pinot Camp is not just about Pinot Noir; it's also about Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, and Gamay, as well as rosé and bubbles. There is much to explore.

At the "Riesling Revival" gathering, held before camp opening at the gorgeous Five Mountains Vineyard home of Elk Cove Vineyards winemaker Adam Campbell (son of founders Pat and Joe Campbell) a half dozen or so Riesling producers gathered for a tasting, paired with excellent Szechuan food, for a pool-side relaxed gathering. Producers pouring their Rieslings included Alexana, Brooks Winery, Elk Cove Vineyards, Hyland Estates, Ponzi Vineyards, Trisaetum, Union Wine Co., and Van Duzer Vineyards.

I chose this event, rather than the one that focused on Chardonnay, because I had a gut feeling that the Rieslings of Oregon were going to shine brighter, and I wanted to try them all at one sitting.

And I was right. Riesling is the white wine of Oregon, in my opinion, with beautiful acidity, nice minerality, complexity, and an ability to be drunk as an aperitif or paired with all kinds of food.

And there's something about the winemakers of Oregon. They are extremely passionate about wines from the Willamette Valley, from the various AVAs and sub-AVAs, as well as about the Riesling grape. And let's face it, Riesling is a hot grape in the sommelier world these days. So, being with winemarkers like Florent Merlier of Van Duzer, Ken Campbell of Elk Cove, Bryan Weil of Alexana, and Luisa Ponzi of Ponzi, as they poured their wines and discussed Riesling's heavenly mission was literally like being at a Revival. And the antics of the day lived up to the event's name, as a "high priest" blessed the event, the wines, and "baptized" several winemakers as they drank from the holy chalice (see photo, left) of mixed Rieslings from the various producers.

Antics aside, I firmly believe that the Rieslings of Oregon are world-class and hope that it will become easier to sell them to customers in the future. Riesling is a hard sell, and consumer education is still needed to get the word out about this noble grape in general, and Oregon Riesling in particular.

I don't mean to dismiss the Chardonnays of Oregon. I did find one in particular that was splendid, from Robert Brittan of Brittan Vineyards. This Burgundian-style Chardonnay was light and refreshing, with a complexity and lingering finish that were extremely pleasing -- and I rarely indulge in domestic Chardonnay, truth be told.

Pinot, Powered by Terroir

Volcanic and Red Jory soils of Oregon

There's no doubt about the fact that Pinot Noir is king in Oregon. It's the grape that most Oregon winemakers hang their hat on. And for good reason.

The Willamette Valley is an extremely diverse region in terms of soils, elevations, and micro-climates, and this results in a variety of Pinot styles, from rich and luxuriant, fruit-forward  versions to light-bodied and "feminine" Burgundian versions. The terroir has everything to do with the wine style. 

There are many soil types in Oregon wine country, and like Eastern Washington, the ancient Missoula Floods had a lot to do with it. (See my previous story on The Dirt on Red Mountain.) These ancient glacial floods left behind tons of marine sediment and deep silt on the Willamette Valley floor. Another factor in the soil diversity is the collision of the Pacific and North American plates off the coast 15 million years ago, which created the coastal range, and hence the rain shadow that currently protects the Willamette Valley. It also created ongoing pressures that resulted in volcanic activity with lava flows that formed the fertile basalt soils, known in Oregon as Red Jory. Windblown Loess soils are a result of the silt blown up from the valley floor onto northeast-facing hillsides of the Valley.

Winemaker Steve Doerner of Cristom

For the most part, Oregon Pinots are grown on the South and Southeast-facing hills, at between 200 and up to 900 feet elevation on volcanic, marine, or windblown loess soils. Volcanic soils produce Pinots that are lush, perfumed and bright red. Pinots from marine sediment tend to be bold, chewy, spicy, with black fruit flavors. Loess soil Pinots offer blueberry, plum, chocolate cherry and spice.

It's not unusual to have different soils within feet of each other in vineyards in Willamette Valley. For example, Steve Doerner, winemaker at Cristom Vineyards in Eiola-Amity Hills, showed OPC campers two sites just 100 feet from each other that had completely different soils, one with rocky volcanic soil and one with richer, more fertile Jory. This is important in vineyard management as the various soils need to be worked differently. Volcanic soil, for instance, is best dry farmed, because when it gets wet it is very slick, for both tractors and humans. Sandy soils not so much.

Another aspect of the terroir is the air, and a great example of how it affects vineyards is the Van Duzer corridor, which guides cool ocean breezes into the valley, particularly effective in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA. Pinot Noir grapes like coolness, and the breezes also cut down disease pressure.

Each producer of Oregon Pinot Noir has their style: For the lighter, more feminine styles, there's Chehalem and Soter, two of my favorites. For bigger, bolder Pinots, there's Ken Wright Cellars, which produces a Pinot from 16 different vineyards throughout the Willamette Valley, showcasing the terroir of each. For a more earthy style, there's Antica Terra. There are dozens more great choices among Oregon Pinots. Check them out at the Oregon Winegrower's Association Web site.

Ocean breezes, courtesy of the Van Duzer Corridor, help keep grapes disease-free in Eola-Amity Hills AVA

Until next time,

Cheers!

Mexican Wines Uncorked

Bodega Monte Xanic in Valle de Guadalupe, Baja, Mexico

Dubbed the 'Napa Valley of Mexico' by Forbes Magazine, Valle de Guadalupe in Baja, Mexico, is located about 215 miles south of Los Angeles, an area not generally known for its wine regions. But with global climate change and the right combination of soils, sunlight, fog, ocean breezes, and modern wine-making techniques, the wine world seems to be expanding to just about every corner of the earth. And it has arrived in Baja, the area just south of the California border where there are now 200+ bonded wineries and a "Ruta de Vino" for the thriving, and thirsty, tourist industry.

And nothing creates more buzz in the world of wine than hip, young sommeliers giving their endorsement to a region or a style. A case in point is Tresomm, a Valle de Guadalupe winery started by Los Angeles-based sommeliers Taylor Grant, Connor Mitchell, and Master Sommelier Chris Miller. Their Tresomm label has arrived at The Wine House and includes a rosé of Grignolino priced at $25.99 and an Aligote white wine at $36.99.

Tresomm is growing these two "old world" grapes in Mexico at 32 degrees latitude. Compare this with the 38 and 37 degrees latitude they are grown in in their native Piedmont (Grignolino) and Burgundy (Aligote). The latter are more "normal" vitis vinifera growing regions, which are defined by being far enough from the equator (which is too hot and close to the sun) and far enough from both the North and South Poles (too cool and far from the sun). Technically northern Mexico is still within this wine growing "belt," but it is pushing the limits a bit.

Sealing the fate of the Mexican wine industry may be the arrival of flying winemaker Michel Rolland, the French oenologist responsible for helping to develop the "garagiste" winemakers of Bordeaux as well as the big wines of Napa, Australia, and a dozen other regions across the globe. When Rolland flies in, it's serious wine business.

Sipping and Savoring Mexican Wine

Stacie Hunt 

A recent LA Wine Writers gathering at Napa Valley Grille in Westwood featured wines of the Valle de Guadelupe, presented by Stacie Hunt, an LA-based sommelier, radio personality, writer (My L.A. Lifestyle) and video producer, who has a long acquaintance with and deep knowledge of the wines of Mexico. 

Ms. Hunt provided a brief history of Mexican wine, as follows:

In the 1700s, Jesuit and then Dominican missionaries revived the vines, with cuttings brought from Europe. In the early 1900s Russians arrived and subsequently families from France, Spain, Italy, Switzerland, the US, and many other countries moved to Baja, bringing their preferred grapes, creating a diverse cultural and viticultural region. This is, of course, in addition to the native Mexicans whose agricultural backgrounds eventually led them to wine production.

The modern wine-making era began in the 1970s, as it did in California, and just about any variety is now grown, which is both a blessing and a curse, as there is great variety in the wines, but no one grape the region can hang its hat on. Chasselas from Switzerland grows, as well as the aforementioned Aligote and Grignolino, and there's also Tempranillo, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Sangiovese, Merlot, Nebbiolo, Dolcetto, Barbera, Petit Sirah, Macabeo (aka Viura) Riesling, Albarino, Viognier, Chenin Blanc, and Cabernet Sauvignon, to name some.

Crisp Sauvignon Blanc 

Our guided tasting was narrowed down by Ms. Hunt to six wines representative of the region, paired with the lovely culinary offerings of the restaurant: 

• Rosé of Merlot from Cava Maciel, paired with poached bosc pear with burrata and endive 
• Sauvignon Blanc from Monte Xanic, paired with diver scallop crudo with cucumber and blood orange reduction
• Two Chardonnays, one oaked version from El Cielo, one unoaked version from Vinos Lechuza, paired with seared cumin crusted seabass and coconut cauliflower
• Sangiovese from Vinos de la Reina paired with pasta arrabbiata with pecorino romana
• Tempranillo from Vena Cava paired with Santa Maria Chimichurri tri tip 

Sangiovese with ...

Pasta Arabbiatta ... perfection

All of pairings were excellent. The Monte Xanic Sauvignon Blanc (pictured above), which reminded me of the crisp versions that are being produced on the Chilean coast of South America, was the standout for me. It paired beautifully with the seafood appetizer. Another nice pairing was the Vinos de la Reina Sangiovese (pictured left) with the robust pasta arrabbiata (pictured right).

Challenges and Optimism for Mexican Wines

There is no arguing with the fact that Mexican wines are here and getting better. But there are some challenges, as well as things working in their favor.

Success factors include:

Geography and Climate: A mountain pass running into Ensinada, brings cooling Pacific Ocean breezes and fog ("creeping in like a cat's paws," per Stacie Hunt) into the vineyards, much like the pass that exists in Santa Barbara County. This creates diurnal temperature shifts of about 25 degrees, which allows grapes to ripen during the day and retain their acidity in the cool evenings.

Diversity: As mentioned, there are diverse cultures and a big variety of grapes, both red and white, that flourish in the region. I choose to see this as a positive, and over time one or more may rise to the top of the grape chain, but until then, let's enjoy the experimenting!

The Cool Factor: As already stated, when hip sommeliers and flying winemakers show interest, you know a region will probably just get better and better.

Wine Route and Tourism: Mexican vintners are embracing the food and wine culture big time, and many wineries have on-site restaurants and lodging for travelers. Valle de Guadalupe makes for a great destination for weddings, reunions, or any other occasion that involves food, wine, celebration or relaxation.

Challenges include:

Salty Soils: The soils in Valle de Guadalupe are calcareous, which you can actually see in the hillsides, which are dotted with giant white boulders composed of fossilized sealife. This is a good thing for the grapes, as it imparts a mineral quality to the wines, but there's just too much salinity ... a troubling issue. Vineyard management solutions to address this include the use of drop irrigation.

Drought: Mexico is dry, drier than California.  There are underground aquifers and their use is currently controversial. One solution includes a proposed 46-mile-long aquaduct using 'black water' (aka sewage) to irrigate. 

Tariffs and Border Security: In the current economic climate, there is a great deal of turmoil surrounding both these issues, and the outcome and the effect on wine availability and pricing is impossible to predict. Stay tuned on this one. But currently, Mexican wines can be found in California, Texas, Washington State, Europe, Canada and Africa.

For more on Mexican wines, check out the following:

Wine Folly: https://winefolly.com/review/an-overview-of-mexican-wine-country/

Snooth: http://www.snooth.com/region/mexico/

Until next time,

Salud!

The Whites (and a Rosé) of Lodi

The lineup for Snooth's tasting of Lodi wines included a rose, two whites and three reds, but no Zinfandel

I recently sampled six wines from Lodi, California, for the latest Snooth "virtual tasting." And not one of them was a Zinfandel!

If you have any knowledge of the wine industry, you are probably aware that Zinfandel is quintessentially Lodi, and that it is the "State Grape" of California. However, it's not the most fashionable grape, even though many beautiful examples, especially those from old vines, come from this region.

I've always thought that Lodi is a red-wine-only region. It does in fact produce a great deal of the red-wine grapes that go into "California"-labeled wines. But the area is putting out some beautiful, crisp, aromatic whites, mostly of Rhone varieties, which is putting Lodi on the map as a quality white wine region.

The Virtual Setup

A virtual tasting involves having wines shipped directly to participants, who can then sample them in the comfort of their own office or home, and interact in a live, on-line presentation. It's great fun, and also quite informative, as the panel is comprised of industry experts. In this case, the moderator was author, speaker, consultant, and TV host Leslie Sbrocco, and the two panelists were Stuart Spencer, Executive Director of LodiWine, and Adam Mettler, winemaker at Michael David Winery and Mettler Family Vineyards.

Another advantage of the virtual tasting is that it's a great way to taste wines you might not otherwise come across (thank you Snooth!), even if you work in one of the best wine shops in the world, which I do. This is especially true when the wines are from an up-and-coming quality wine area like Lodi, where many of the wineries are small, family-run, artisan, and cutting edge.

I've visited Lodi wine region only once, when I attended the Wine Blogger's Conference (renamed the Wine Media Conference) in 2016, just after it had been named Wine Region of the Year by Wine Enthusiast magazine. I was under the assumption that I'd find vast flat vineyards producing Zinfandel by the tankful, and that's about it. What I did not expect was a region with varying geography, climate, and grape varieties. I was also blown away by the enthusiasm and integrity of the multiple small- and medium-sized wineries I visited.

The Wines

The LodiWines virtual tasting consisted of six wines: one rosé, two whites, and three reds. I'm going to focus here on the rosé and the whites, as they demonstrated the most to me about Lodi as a region that's capable of producing more than Zin:

2018 'Ingénue' from Acquiesce Winery
This is a beautiful Rhone white blend of 35% Grenache Blanc, 20% Bourboulenc, and 10% Picpoul Blanc. Grown in the cooler climate Lodi Mokelumne River AVA, this wine shows the amazing potential for white wines in this region, with good acidity, a nice floral nose, and a delicacy that pleases the palate. It also has a mouth-coating weightiness to it, which I expect from any Rhone-style white. Owners Susan and Rodney Tipton set their sights on being an all-white winery, a bold move when they started 10 years ago, but I think it's paid off for them. The vines for this wine are Tablas Creek cuttings (I consider them the best producer of Rhone varieties in California, by the way), originally from Chateau de Beaucastel in Chateauneuf-du-Pape in the Southern Rhone Valley in France. 'Ingenue' is a stunner. It's being released in July and will be priced at $32.

2018 Vermentino from M2 Wines 
This is another wine from the Mokelumne River AVA, showing that Vermentino, a grape that originated in Italy (or Greece or France, where it' called "Rolle"  -- origins are always debatable!) is well-suited to the soils and Mediterranean climate of this AVA. This $20 wine is a lively, crisp, aromatic wine with citrus notes and a touch of minerality. At just 12.3% alcohol, I envision drinking many glasses of this on a warrm sunny afternoon in my backyard.

2018 Aglianico Rosé from LangeTwins Family Winery 
This wine got to me ... in a very good way. I'm not a huge lover of the Italian red grape Aglianico, as it can be a bit too aggressive for my palate. It's a big, bold, powerful grape, indigenous to the Campania region of southern Italy. It usually requires years of aging before it mellows out. But from LangeTwins of Lodi, and crafted into a luscious Rosé, I've found an Aglianico that I can get on board with. My palate was filled with strawberries, in fact I think this wines tastes like a vinous version of strawberry shortcake. It's got a lovely mouth coating quality, balanced with fresh fruity and pleasing acidity. At $20 per bottle, it's priced right too.

Final Notes on Lodi

Here are some things I learned from the panelists about Lodi:

• The 2018 vintage in Lodi was good, with very long, even ripening with no high peaks, plus good sugar levels and high volumes. This bodes well for a region that's "giving Paso Robles a run for it's money," according to one participant at the virtual tasting.  
• With more than 85 wineries (compared to just 8 in 2000) Lodi is a hip, fun place for new wine makers, and the land is also more affordable than in other wine regions of California.
• There are currently seven AVAs, which produce 20% of the total premium wines in California and 40% of the premium Zinfandels.
• Lodi and its AVAs are strongly influenced by the San Francisco Bay, with all the rivers in the Sacramento Delta draining into it. The cooling winds off the bay are brought into Lodi AVAs via the gap in the mountain ranges, cooling the entire Delta area, creating a suitable growing environment for Mediterranean whites. 
• Kerner is another white grape showing great promise in the area.

After tasting the "Whites of Lodi," I plan to explore the area further to see what other gems I can discovery. 

Until next time,

Cheers!

"Other Bubbles" Favorites and What's Next?

It was extremely satisfying seeing the enthusiastic response to the "Other Bubbles" tasting I hosted at The Wine House on February 12. What started as a small idea, which I initially discussed with some of my wine friends, turned into an actual event that sold out quickly. It seems many people like bubbles!

We ended up with a wait list of over 20 people (only one attendee cancelled at the last minute). I wish I could have let everyone in, but we had to limit the amount of wine we poured. Seeing this enthusiastic reception to "Other Bubbles," I may try to make this a bigger event next year.

The wines we poured were grouped by country or continent to give the curious tasters the opportunity to understand how geography, and changing global climates, are affecting grape growing and sparkling wine production.

Gusbourne and Chapel Down

With the above in mind, one of the most popular tasting groups was the English wines. We poured two wines each from Gusbourne and Chapel Down, a brut and a rose. "I've never tasted wine from England" was uttered countless times, and most people were pleasantly surprised at what they tasted. I'm thrilled that these wines were so warmly received, as I visited both of the wineries while on my Graduation Trip last year upon completion of my WSET diploma course. I love the bracing acidity of these wines, and I hope more people discover them in the years to come. I'm pleased to say they are now sold at the Wine House.

Another hit from the event was the Bird in Hand sparkling Pinot Noir Rosé from the Adelaide Hills of South Australia. Priced at just $16.99 per bottle, this juicy, peppy sparkler was described by many attendees as an "everyday" sparkling wine or a perfect backyard barbecue wine.

I will be visiting Australia in October as part of the Wine Media Conference, which this year takes me to the Hunter Valley, famous for its beautiful Semillons. I'll also be exploring the Mudgee region, notable for it's cuisine, its honey, and, of course, its wines.

But up next is the Spanish Wine Fest on Sunday, March 31 at the Wine House. Tickets are $75, which buys you an afternoon of nearly 50 wines, including some high-end Rioja Reservas, paella and Spanish tapas. I hope to see you there. Purchase tickets.

Until next time,
Cheers!

Other Bubbles, or "It's Not Champagne!"

Did you know that only 8 percent of the sparkling wines of the world come out of the Champagne region of France, while more than 90 percent is produced outside this venerable region?

Many bubbles are made around the world. Some of these employ the Champagne, or Traditional, method of fermentation, where the second fermentation (when the bubbles are formed) takes place in the bottle the wine is shipped in. Other bubbly wines are produced using different methods. For instance, Italian Prosecco is usually made using the "tank" method, where the second fermentation takes place in a large pressurized tank.

The fermentation method used can determine the final cost of the sparkling wine, with tank method production costing less. However, this does not mean the wines are necessarily inferior. Prosecco is meant to be a sparkling that preserves the crisp fresh fruit of the base wine, and tank method production allows this to shine through. Champagne method sparklings exhibit more yeasty, or autolytic, qualities, which can make the wines more complex and age worthy, but are usually more expensive due to the higher production costs.

In some cases the same grapes that comprise Champagne, that is, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier, are used, but more often other grapes, like Riesling, Chenin Blanc, and Shiraz, are employed to create crisp, refreshing, complex, and delicious sparkling wines.

Hotter Climates, More Sparklings?

Changing global climate conditions are contributing to an increase in sparkling wine production in places formerly too cold to grow wine grapes. Tazmania, Patagonia, and England are three far-flung regions of the world now producing scintillating sparkling wines of depth and complexity. 

In the case of England, the wines are grown in the same “Paris Basin” soils of chalk as Champagne, which gives both wines their distinctive minerality and racy acidity (see my previous posts on English wines).

Experience Other Bubbles

Gusbourne in the UK makes sparkling and other wines.

On February 12, I will be hosting an in-store event at the Wine House in Los Angeles that will allow you to compare and contrast more than 20 sparkling wines from a variety of countries.

You'll be able to taste Cremant from France; Prosecco, Franciacorta and Lambrusco from Italy; Sekt from Germany; and Cava from Spain.  Additionally, there will be approachable New World sparkling wines from California, Oregon, and New Mexico, as well as Tazmanian and Patagonian sparkling Pinot Noirs, and Australian sparkling Shiraz. There may be some other surprises as well!

And you'll be able to soak up the bubbles with cheese and charcuterie from the Wine House's newly expanded gourmet section.

Purchase tickets for yourself or as a gift for the bubbles lover in your life. I hope to see you there!

Until next time,

Cheers!